Germany is the BEST. We had the trip of a lifetime exploring Bavarian castles, toasting with friends at Oktoberfest, and spending quality time with our niece and nephews in their hometown. Although we didn’t travel very efficiently because we split our time between traveling and family, I’ll also share a southern Germany itinerary that makes geographic sense and gets you to even more amazing teeny tiny Bavarian towns. Don’t forget to bookmark this post for when you’re planning your own trip!

We spent two days and two nights in each town – looking back, that was a LOT of time on the train and tons of packing/unpacking. I don’t really mind that, but we learned that Jake is a lot happier when he has more time to settle into a place. A compromise of 3-4 days in each town would probably be the perfect amount of time to fully experience everything each town has to offer 🙂

Note: travel by train in Germany is super easy when you have a little context. I share a cheat sheet of the German rail system at the end of this post. You could also rent a car if you’d prefer – it’ll be quicker and more convenient, but more expensive.

Day 1: Travel Day to Freiburg im Breisgau

We got a direct flight from Denver (!) and arrived in the early afternoon (don’t you love it when you lose eight hours?!). We had pre-booked all our train tickets, so we popped on the high-speed train right away to get to our first stop: Freiburg im Breisgau. It’s about a 4.5 hour train ride (with two platform changes) so we arrived around 9pm. It was a LONG day, but incredibly worth it to wake up to these views the next day.

Day 2/3: Explore Freiburg im Breisgau

This town is incredible. Everywhere you turn, you feel like you’re in a fairy tale (this will be a theme throughout the entire trip because basically everywhere you go in Bavaria/Baden-Wuttermburg is stunningly beautiful). We started the day with breakfast at the hotel and then headed straight for Munsterplatz, the main city square. The Freiburger Munster cathedral is the obvious focal point, and it’s absolutely striking. It’s definitely worth a peek going inside to see the stunning sanctuary, crypt, and intricate wood carvings. We wandered around the square observing all the action of the daily farmer’s market, sipping on lattes from one of the food trucks. Pro tip: there is an amazing bratwurst food truck in the square that you have to try!

Perhaps our favorite activity was a hike up to the Schlossberg Park where there are incredible panoramic views of not just Freiburg, but the larger Black Forest region (if you don’t want the uphill walk, there’s a funicular that goes up the same vantage point!).

There are so many historic sites around – the town was originally closed off by two “gates” dating back to the 1200s (!!). Both the Martinstor (“Martin’s Gate”) and Schwabentor (Swabian Gate) (this one has a great bridge that goes into the park!) are gorgeous. You can go up the Schwabentor to get a cool vantage point of the city.

There are lots of great bars and restaurants to explore around Freiburg. We loved the people at the Weinladen im Stühlinger wine shop who recommended a fantastic local wine. Near Martin’s Gate is a hole-in-the-wall pub called Schlappen that’s a great place for an afternoon pint. Head to Erste Liebe for a great traditional Germany dinner. Spend the afternoon out on the patio at Biergarten Brauerei Feierling right by Little Venice. We didn’t go here, but I LOVE a rooftop bar – try out Rooftop Bar powered by Breuninger x Geldermann right near Munsterplatz if you need a break from beer!

If shopping is your jam, there’s also tons of options! Freiburg is actually a well-known shopping city, and there are a slew of charming boutiques in the old town area (head to Konvikt Strasse Street) as well as larger international stores like H&M on the main causeway (the street is called Kaiser-Joseph Strasse). My favorite souvenir-style shops were all in Freiburg – I got the prettiest traditional Bavarian wooden Christmas tree ornaments from the sweetest old man in a tiny boutique.

Details: Freiburg im Breisgau

Where to Stay:

• We stayed at the Stadthotel of Kolping Hotels + Resorts, which was a lovely, no frills, boutique-style hotel within walking distance to everything (including the train station!). It’s a few blocks from the “action” of Munsterplatz but in a great location. It was the right pricepoint and experience for us.
• Other options: If you want to be right on Munsterplatz, your best bets are Hotel Oberkirch, Hotel Rappen am Münsterplatz, or Schwarzwälder Hof.

What to Do, Eat, and Drink:

• Munsterplatz – go in the mid-morning to mid-afternoon because vendors will leave around 2pm. Relax, have a coffee (or if you’re me, a couple glasses of champagne), and people-watch at the Eis Café Lazzarin right in the town square
• Freiberger Munster cathedral – don’t forget to go inside!
• If it’s open, pop into the Historical Merchants’ Hall (Historisches Kaufhaus) in Munsterplatz. There’s also a great little outdoor book shop going on out front during the day!
• Hike to the top of Schlossberg Park for incredible panoramic views of the Black Forest region (or take the Schlossbergbahn funicular cable car)
• Window shop at the boutiques on all the streets surrounding the Munsterplatz (there are so many great spots to check out!)
• Hang out at Markthalle food hall (right near Little Venice!) and grab a drink/variety of international food options. Fun vibes!
• Wander around Klein Venedig, or “Little Venice” – grab a drink at one of the bars overlooking the little canals
• Visit Weinladen im Stühlinger wine shop for expert recommendations and grab a fantastic bottle of wine (for a fantastic price!) to take back to your hotel
• Check out the two main historic city gates: Martinstor (“Martin’s Gate”) and Schwabentor (you can walk up this one!)

Day 3/4/5: Explore Heidelberg

UGH, Heidelberg has my heart!! I love this town so much. It has the best vibes and the MOST unbelievable views. There is so much hiking around here, too, because the town is nestled in the mountains of the Black Forest. I would seriously live here – but at a minimum, I would have stayed here another day or two to get to enjoy more hiking and really get to know the town. Heidelberg deserves it 😉

We spent the first part of day 3 in Freiburg im Breisgau and took a mid-afternoon train to Heidelberg. It’s only a 90 minute ride, so we arrived in plenty of time for dinner. We checked into our hotel (details on where we’d stay next time below) and went across the street for a wonderful Italian dinner at Trattoria 37 (there’s another highly rated Italian spot much closer to the main part of town if that’s where you’re staying).

Like Freiburg im Briesgau, Heidelberg also has a beautiful town square – their main one is creatively named Heidelberger Marktplatz (haha). The Church of the Holy Spirit (Heiliggeistkirche) in Marktplatz is absolutely gorgeous, both outside and in. There’s another town square a couple blocks away that’s just as charming – and less crowded – called Karlsplatz. Don’t sleep on Karlsplatz, because there are several cute cafes, pubs, and restaurants there!

No question, the crown jewel of Heidelberg is the Schloss Heidelberg (Schloss means Palace in German). Perched atop a (super steep) hill, this part-ruins, part-restored castle from the 1200s is a true showstopper at every turn. You can explore the exterior on your own for a smaller fee, or go on a guided interior/exterior tour for a larger fee. We chose the cheaper self-guided option and spent the entire morning wandering the palace grounds. The views of the town, Neckar River, and bridges from the palace are unreal.

From the palace, we wandered back down to Old Town Heidelberg and meandered along the long, famous pedestrian street called Haupt Strasse (Hauptstraße). There is some seriously good shopping on this street – including stores like H&M and Mango. It’s also dotted with cute cafes (read: croissants and/or ice cream while you walk).

After all that walking, it was most definitely time for a drink. There are tons of options in Old Town Heidelberg – everything from a traditional Löwenbräu pub (one of the six major breweries in Germany) to a standard outdoor biergarten to a patio pub with beautiful river views (called Karl).

There are SO many great hikes/walks all around the mountains of Heidelberg. One of the best is Philosopher’s Way (Philosophenweg) which is a beautiful walk up in the hills across the main Old Bridge (Alte Brucke) from Marktplatz. The views are absolutely incredible!

One place I wouldn’t recommend eating: right on Haupt Strasse, especially as you get close to Marktplatz. It’s extremely touristy and the food will not be good – I know that because we made that mistake 😆 We were starving and it was a Tuesday which meant a lot of restaurants were closed, so we just popped into a traditional touristy German restaurant right on the main street with a big tent sign out front. Definitely not worth it. Instead of eating on Haupt Strasse, I’d recommend heading closer to the water.

Like I mentioned at the beginning, I would have loved another day in Heidelberg because we didn’t get to see and do everything I had hoped. With that said, another can’t miss and quick pit stop is crossing the Old Town Bridge, called Theodor Heuss Bridge. The bridge itself is a historical masterpiece, and the views are amazing. If you go down a set of stairs to the left of the bridge once you’ve crossed, you’ll find a lovely green space (called Neckarwiese) and some walking trails that go under the bridge to get a unique and gorgeous view of Old Town and the palace.

Details of Heidelberg

Where to Stay:

• Our hotel, Hotel HeidelWorld, was great – super comfortable and a great price. The location, however, was in hindsight a little farther out than was ideal. If I were going again, I’d want to stay closer to Marktplatz and the river.
• Other options (all are super convenient to the main squares, palace, restaurants/beirgartens, and hiking): Heidelberg House (closest to the palace), Hotel Goldener Falke (right on Marktplatz), The Dubliner (on the main Haupt Strasse), and Hotel Hollander Hof, which looks AMAZING – right on the water but just a couple blocks from Marktplatz!

What to Eat/Drink/Do:

• Bars: Hemingway’s Heidelberg, Zimmer Küche Bar, Hans Hirsch’s Kurpfalzbräu, Kulturbrauerei Heidelberg, and Waldschenke Heidelberg Gasthaus mit Biergarten (across the river – would be a great spot to grab a drink after walking through Philosopher’s Way)
• Food: There’s a fairly large university in Heidelberg, so there’s actually some pretty good food! I’d avoid Haupt Strasse (the main pedestrian road through Old Town Heidelberg), especially as you get closer to the Church of the Holy Spirit – except for bars/cafes. Instead, try Wirtshaus zum Nepomuk for a nice traditional German dinner, Weinstube Schnitzelbank for a more relaxed atmosphere a little out of the way, Chambino by the water for Mediterranean, or Arepas World Heidelberg if you’re feeling Mexican (and vegan/GF options!).
• Definitely go to Schloss Heidelberg!! Plan for 1/2 a day there (and bring a croissant/coffee to enjoy on the grounds overlooking the river). We also went to the winery in the palace and enjoyed a couple glasses of wine – highly recommend!
• Meander down Haupt Strasse and check out all the shops along pedestrian street (I recommend finding some ice cream around here 🍦)
• Relax with a coffee or a drink and people watch in both Karlsplatz and Marktplatz (in Marktplatz, don’t forget to go inside the Church of the Holy Spirit!)
• Hiking: cross the Old Bridge (called Theodor Heuss Bridge) and wander up the hill via Philosopher’s Way/Walk to enjoy more panoramic views. When you cross the bridge don’t forget to go down first and walk the trails under the bridge to get a unique vantage point of the river. There are a few trails which are part of a nice green space called Neckarwiese. I should say there’s also tons more hiking trails around Heidelberg than the ones I’ve mentioned, so don’t be afraid to explore around the hillsides!
• Because of the university, there’s a plethora of great museums in Heidelberg as well. Check out all the options on the Heidelberg tourism website.

Day 5/6/7: Explore Rothenburg ob der Tauber

After two days in Heidelberg, we hopped back on the train for a more interesting journey to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It’s a little more challenging to get there because there is not a direct route, so we had to hop on a tiny bus after getting on two separate trains. It was 100% “no ragrets” worth it, though, because this town is like magic.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is an old palatial town that feels like you stepped back in time. From the quintessential Bavarian timber buildings to the old wall surrounding the entire town, every tiny cobblestone street feels deliciously German. It’s particularly famous for its Christmas-y feel and for how decked out the whole town is around the holidays. Therefore, if you’re visiting in December, it’s even more of a must-stop (although according to my sister-in-love, it gets especially busy and touristy during the holiday season). It’s a really small town, so you’ll comfortably be able to see everything in two days.

We arrived in the evening, just in time to check into our hotel and run across the street for dinner. You absolutely HAVE to stay at the Burg-Hotel. There is nothing better – the owner is the kindest man, it’s in the perfect location, the price is great for what you get, the rooms are beautiful and well-appointed, and it’s right across an excellent traditional German restaurant (also in a nice hotel).

The next morning, we ate breakfast at the hotel (included) and then ventured off. We started with exploring the stunning Castle Gardens, which then led us to begin walking the amazingly gorgeous and informative Tower Trail. This trail takes you all along the exterior of Rothenburg where you can see incredible views of the Tauber Valley as well as the ruins of the wall that spans the perimeter of the entire town. There are also so, so many old tower gates scattered along the wall that used to protect the town.

By the time we’d walked the Tower Trail, we were both hungry and thirsty. We made our way to Marktplatz and hung out with some Irish coffees and people-watched inside one of the cafes as folks tried to maneuver through the chilly afternoon rain. When the sun peaked back out, we made sure to catch the Town Hall cuckoo clock doing a cutie little dance at the top of the hour (it’s definitely worth standing in the Marktplatz main square and waiting to see!).

Germany is not known for their food overall (sorry, not sorry), but Rothenburg is really well-acquainted with tourists so you’re likely to have a good eating experience just about wherever you go. My recommendations: stop by the famous Cafe Einzigartig for breakfast, Eiscafé-Pizzeria Roma or Vito Restaurant Cafe for classic Italian, Don Gallo for great Mexican, or Alter Keller for a nicer steak dinner.

Both of my sisters-in-love drove up from Munich that afternoon and met us for the night in Rothenburg. We had so much fun wandering around town! We wanted to do a Nightwatchman tour (Nachtwächter), which is really popular, but weren’t able to squeeze it in (we got a little distracted at the bars 🍻).

The next day we visited St. James Church, wandered the main shopping streets and checked out the very picturesque Plönlein, and grabbed a famous “snowball” treat from a local cafe. I could have spent another 1-2 days here just relaxing (there are lots of spas in Rothenburg!) and exploring more of the Tauber River Valley (some call it the Riveria). If you have the time, you won’t regret spending it here… I can’t wait to go back someday.

Details of Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Where to Stay:

• The Burg-Hotel, hands down. We loved our stay, and the location is incredible overlooking the valley.
• Other highly-rated hotels right nearby are the Herrnschlösschen and the Hotel BurgGartenpalais (this is where the great restaurant is across from the Burg-Hotel).

What to Eat/Drink/Do:

• Food: Eat a lovely traditional German dinner at the Hotel BurgGartenpalais. Stop by the famous Cafe Einzigartig for breakfast, Eiscafé-Pizzeria Roma or Vito Restaurant Cafe for classic Italian, Don Gallo for great Mexican, or Alter Keller for a nicer steak dinner
• Bars: Zur Hoell is a quintessential tavern experience in a half-timber house,
• Walk the entire perimeter of the town by following the beautiful Tower Trail (it’s completely surrounded by the ruins of a old palatial wall and a series of gates). This will take a few hours as there are lots of historical landmarks to read about along the way
• Watch the cuckoo clock do a cute (and elaborate) dance on the hour at the Town Hall (Rathaus Rothenburg ob der Tauber) in Marktplatz. Make sure you’re looking at the top of the small white building, not the giant Gothic-looking brown one!
• Visit inside the Church of St. James (St.-Jakobs-Kirche) to see the artwork and altar
• Get lost walking through the Spital Gate (Spitaltor) at the very edge of town. You can walk inside, too! Parts of this area used to be a hospital back in the 1600s
• If you’re a clay Christmas village collector like me, hop into one of the several pottery stores along the main Ob. Schmiedgasse shopping street and bring home a keepsake (I bought a replica of the Plönlein!)
• Speaking of Christmas… check out the German Christmas Museum to really get in the holiday spirit (I could not convince Jake to go here in September 😂)
• Speaking of museums… if crazy history is your jam, there’s also a Medieval Crime and Justice Museum showcases all the gruesome ways people were tortured, humiliated, and killed wayyyy back when
• Walk the main Ob (becomes U ) to the picturesque Plönlein (Google this to be sure you find it!)
• Wander the Castle Gardens (Burggarten) and take a photo of the gorgeous Tauber river valley below
• There are tons of hikes and walking trails all around the area!
• Experience a Nighwatchman (Nachtwächter) tour
• Rothenburg is technically part of the Franconian wine region! If you have the time and enjoy walking, head to the An der Eich and Glock vineyards to experience a wine tasting
• Speaking of walking… if you’re already headed to wine country, you might as well stop by the Double Bridge on your way

Day 7/8/9/10: Explore Munich

The second half of our trip was spent just outside of Munich with our precious niece and nephews who live there. We went to Oktoberfest with some of our best pals who met up with us there, and it was a BLAST to say the least. Hot tip: each German brewery has a giant tent on the festival grounds. It gets pretty crazy in those tents, so if you’re looking for a more relaxed atmosphere I’d recommend trying to get tickets for a real table (these go fast and tickets go on sale usually in April or May). If you don’t get a reservation, though, don’t sweat it – you’ll just need to choose a tent (we went to Lowenbrau) by around 3pm and stay put at a table for the rest of the evening. Tents will often close to non-reserved folks by around 5pm due to overcrowding. You WILL make friends who will want to sit with you if you get there early enough to snag a table. Just roll with it and have a good time 🍻 And, as my sister-in-love says, “don’t get too caught up in the vibe.” It’s very easy to down several 1-liter beers without much thought because everyone is drinking and dancing and singing, and before you know it, the room is spinning. Pace yourself to enjoy yourself 😆

Anyway, there’s SO much to see and do in and around Munich, and between your own two feet and the reliable rail system, you’re sure to have a great time. Aside from Oktoberfest (in September!), visiting the famous Marienplatz main square is an obvious hit; you can’t miss the Gothic Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) (note that in December, all of Marienplatz turns into a beautiful gluhwein-filled Christmas market). The English Garden (Englischer Garten) is a favorite of my family, and it’s one of the largest parks in the world. Climb up the tower of St. Peter’s Church to get panoramic views of the city. If you (or yours) are really into cars, check out the BMW Museum and the BMW Welt (dealership) right next door.

Admittedly, we didn’t get to see much in Munich itself because we were busy hanging with the kiddos (always my favorite activity!). I’ll be sure to update this part of the post as we explore more of Munich during future trips!

On our last day, we all stopped by Freising on our way to the Munich airport. This tiny little town was chock FULL of charm!! A little canal runs through the main street, there are great cafes to grab lunch and a coffee, and we explored the most stunningly beautiful basilica I have ever seen. The exterior of the Freising Cathedral (also called St. Mary’s and St. Corbinian Cathedral) isn’t exceptional compared to many churches in the area, but inside will truly stop you in your tracks. I highly recommend giving this little town a try for an afternoon before hopping on the plane.

Other Towns to Explore in Bavaria:

• Füssen: I really wanted to make it to Füssen, not only because it hosts the famous Neuschwanstein Castle (which inspired the Disney castle!), but because it’s a quintessential mountain town (just a really, really old European mountain town)
• Würzburg: This town is part of true Germany wine country and has some of the best Baroque architecture out there. It also sits on a major river, so the views are top-notch
• Regensburg: Regensburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you know it’ll be beautiful. Similar to Wurzburg, it sits on the beautiful Danube River and therefore has gorgeous towers and bridges galore
• Garmisch-Partenkirchen: only 90 minutes from Munich but feels like a totally different world! This is my family’s favorite place to go for skiing, camping, hiking adventures, or weekend getaways. It is mountainous and beautiful
• Chiemsee: this lake is less than 1.5 hours from Munich and makes the perfect day trip to enjoy stunning views and time outside!
• Eibsee: another day trip option from Munich that centers around a lake and is the most incredible backdrop for a picnic, hike, or outdoor activities. Google it and thank me later
• Really Anything along the Romantic Road: If you make it to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Wurzburg, or Fussen, you’ve made it to the famous Romantic Road, which ties the Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria regions together (Freiburg im Breisgau is technically in Baden-Württemberg). You can drive the Romantic Road and hit a slew of beautiful towns, experience great wine (and food), and walk/bike along rivers to your heart’s content

There is SO MUCH to see and experience – you can’t go wrong with Bavaria!!

German Rail System, Explained:

The German rail system is a bit complex if you’re anything like me and don’t know a lick of German 😆 Below I’ll break down what you need to know to book tickets and get around (note that this is for Bavaria, so I’m not sure what the titles are for other regions of Germany).

• S-Bahn: regional, electric high-speed train system that acts kind of like a subway/metro/light rail in cities. The “S” stands for “Stadtschnellbahn”, which means rapid city train. They’re amazing for getting around Munich and its suburbs.
• ICE: High-speed trains that connect different cities (they even connect in different countries, too!). “ICE” stands for “Inter City Express.” These trains go longer distances and move really quickly, so they’re what you’ll take between these towns.
• IC: regular-speed trains that go longer distances (“Inter City”). These are typically cheaper options than the ICE trains but will make more stops.
• RE: “RE” stands for “Regional Express”. These trains are quick and will connect you to towns that are shorter distances apart.
• Hbf: This stands for “Hauptbahnhof”, which is the central station of any city. I would recommend you choose the Hbf as your stopping point if you’re town-hopping.

Book your trains well in advance of your trip for better savings. We did book the “first class” cabin for our longest trip from Munich to Freiburg im Briesgau when we knew we’d be tired and cranky from the plane, and it was worth the extra $18 per person. For shorter trips, I don’t think it’s worth it IMO.

Download the DB Navigator app on your phone and upload your tickets to the app so you can use the QR code as your ticket. There’s also a map and a way to see if the train is delayed. Highly recommend!

You can get an S-Bahn day pass for really cheap, which I’d recommend if you’re planning to spend some time in Munich (you don’t need it in smaller Bavarian towns like Heidelberg or Rothenberg ob der Tauber because you can walk everywhere).

---

Let me know if you found this southern Germany itinerary helpful for your own trip to Bavaria!