Travel Diaries: 10-Day Portugal Itinerary
Ah, Portugal! We had the BEST time with my best buddies from college traveling along the Western coastline of the country – there’s an other-worldly beauty to it, so much history, gorgeous beaches, and truly incredible food. I can’t recommend this trip enough!!
We chose a winter trip to Portugal for a few reasons – Portugal is definitely a summery kind of place because of all the pristine beaches, sunny blue skies, and the innate need to order an Aperol Spritz at every restaurant. However, we chose the off season because not only are the crowds smaller and the prices lower, but the whole country is lit up (literally and figuratively) for Christmas. The weather was still great – 50s and 60s during the day and 40s – 50s at night, with only a couple days of rain. I would love to have a beach day in Portugal sometime, so I can certainly see the appeal of the summer as well 😉
We spent 3.5 days and three nights in most of the towns – a bit shorter of a spell in Lagos, which I really wish we could have extended because it was my favorite place! Anyway, there is SO much to see in Portugal that honestly I might recommend splitting the trip into two separate occasions – a northern and southern trip.
Day 1: Arrival in Porto
We flew into Porto and out of Lisbon, which worked super well! Would highly recommend that. We arrived in the early evening and checked into our amazing Airbnb – from there we walked around the famous Ribeira neighborhood (on the river) and landed at a fantastic tiny little basement Portuguese restaurant called O Buraquinho da Sé. Tip: get the cod! Another tip: get wine from the little markets around town and bring them back to your hotel/Airbnb. Super cheap and super fun! 🙂
Day 2: Exploring Porto
Porto is truly an unbelievably beautiful city. The bridge, the water, the food, the smaller-town vibes, the history, the architecture – it’s tough to beat. To fuel your morning, grab a pastry at the famous Confeitaria do Bolhau (pastel de nata is the famous Portuguese custard pastry). Then walk right across the street to the stunning Mercado do Bolhau – grab a glass of wine and wander around to the market, taking in all the sights (and smells!).
The iconic Livraria Lello bookstore, supposedly where inspiration for scenes from the Harry Potter books came to J.K. Rowling while she lived in Porto, is a must-see – note that you’ll need to purchase tickets in advance. Nearby is the beautiful Igreja do Carmo baroque cathedral, where for 5 euros you can experience the history of Portuguese religion and go up on the roof for nice city views. By now you’ll be hungry from all the walk, so try the Porto famous dish, francesinha, for lunch at Cafe Santiago, Cervejaria Brasão, or O Afonso (depending on where you are in the city).
Come sunset, walk down the Rua das Flores – an iconic pedestrian street with tons of cute shops – and finish down by the riverfront. Sip on some wine and one of the waterfront restaurants followed by a sunset walk across the Luis Bridge (there’s a higher and a lower/accessible option!).
Day 3: Duoro Valley Wine Tour
This Airbnb experience couldn’t have been better! Manuel, George, and their families/friends were the kindest people ever and they made the day a truly incredible experience. You’ll start bright and early, so grab some pastries before the car ride where your driver will talk you through the history of Portuguese wine (especially Port wine, which is the most famous wine of the Douro Valley). You’ll visit two different wineries where you’ll get such a detailed and personalized experience. As the day progresses, you’ll go on a beautiful boat ride while enjoying drinks down the Douro River, followed by a truly incredible home-cooked meal at the family friend’s winery. It is an absolutely lovely day and I would recommend this experience to absolutely anyone! 🙂
Once you’re back in downtown Porto, take a walk across the bridge to grab a drink at the Kopke Port House (the older port wine house in Porto), followed by dinner at Voltaria or O Buraco.
Porto: Where to Stay
- We LOVED our Airbnb! Perfect for a larger group, and the views were incredible (as was the location).
- If you want to stay in the Douro Valley (which wouldn’t be a bad idea at all!), friends have stayed here and loved it.
- Here’s another smaller place in Porto – amazing location and a great price!
Porto: What to Do, Eat, and Drink
- Grab pastries from Confeitaria do Bolhau
- Head to the Kopke Port House for a pre-dinner glass of port wine
- Eat at Voltaria (try the famous Francesinha dish here!), O Buraquinho da Sé, O Buraco, O Afonso, Cafe Santiago, or Cervejaria Brasão
- Do a day trip wine tour in the Douro Valley, like this one
- Experience the beauty of Livaria Lello bookstore (book tickets in advance to avoid the lines)
- Explore the riverfront (Ribeira Square) and sip wine at a waterfront restaurant while watching the sunset
- Walk across the Ponte Luis Bridge
- Shop along the Rua das Flores
- Explore the Mercado do Bolhao
- If you want to see more of the city more quickly, hop on the Tram #1 or #22 (you can get the Porto card for easy transit, which includes passage on the #1. We did not get a Porto card – we didn’t feel we needed it, as the city is so walkable!)
Day 4: Day Trip to Nazaré
We booked bus tickets in advance through Rome2Rio, which were only a few dollars per person. Stopping in Nazaré on the way from Porto to Lisbon was the most efficient way to see the town – we found buses to be super reliable and quick overall.
Nazaré is absolutely a can’t-miss town in my opinion. Granted, Jake and I are super into the docuseries 100 Foot Wave and are therefore totally mesmerized by the waves and surf culture, so maybe if you don’t care about big wave surfer it’s not as big of a deal 😆 But regardless, it’s a stunning town with great food, great vibes, and the most spectacular waves you’ll ever see.
From the central bus station, you’ll want to walk straight up toward the lighthouse (there is also a funicular if you’d prefer not to walk). The sheer magnitude of the sea is humbling. Watch the waves from different vantage points on the cliff, and make sure to walk along the beach itself to feel the power of the waves.
Once you’ve had your first fill of watching the waves (and surfers getting toed in by jet skis, which is so cool), head back up into town for lunch at Restaurante Sítio dos Petiscos or Le Petit Chef Belge (a cute little hut on your way back into town from the lighthouse). Go inside the lighthouse if you want to see the little museum and and some uniquely gorgeous views from the cliff (2 euro entrance fee).
As we walked through town on our way back to the bus station, we felt like there was much more to the town than we had time to see. If we did this trip again, we’d definitely want at least one overnight in Nazaré. It’s such a special and beautiful town!
Day 5: Exploring Lisbon
A lot of folks think of Lisbon as a jumping off point to other spots, and while I agree that there are places you’ve got to see around Lisbon (namely Nazaré and Sintra), Lisbon deserves its own day (or more)! I would have loved to spend at least one more day here because there was so much I wanted to do! I have TONS of recommendations listed near the bottom of this post if you’re lucky enough to have more time here.
Because we were in Lisbon in December, everything was decked out for the holidays in the grandest of fashions. We went to a cute Chrismtas Market in the Rossio Square (Praça Dom Pedro IV) or the Chiado neighborhood (the beautiful but fancy shopping district). We stopped for pastries along our walk – you can’t go wrong popping into any cafe along the winding, skinny streets of Lisbon!
Just before sunset, we popped up to the Java Rooftop bar. This place had incredible sweeping views of Lisbon and the water, plus great drinks and great vibes! Highly recommend.
We ate dinner at Time Out Market one night, and experienced an incredible Fado dinner and music at the iconic Fama D’Alfama restaurant another night. Fado is absolutely a can’t-miss experience! If you don’t want to do the expensive dinner, you can go to a late-night spot to enjoy just wine (again, see the full list of recs below).
Day 6: Day Trip to Sintra
Ugh, Sintra!! I’d live here. It’s so beautiful!! This historic town is full of castles from royal families hundreds of years ago. A super easy 5 euro train from Lisbon’s Oriente station will drop you right in the heart of town 30 minutes later (you can just buy tickets at the kiosks once in the station – no need to purchase in advance).
We went to Quinta da Regaleira, which was AMAZING. There is so much to see on the grounds and the entire place is like paradise. The interior is amazing as well. Don’t miss it!!
If we’d had more time, we would have gone up to Peña Palace for sunset (we didn’t make it to Sintra until 1pm, so as long as you arrive earlier you should have time for at least two castles!) – I’ve heard the interior isn’t much to write home about, but the exterior and grounds are supposedly spectacular. Another castle I would have like to see is the Castle of the Moors (Moorish Castle).
When you need to stop for lunch or dinner, you can’t miss going to Taberna Critativa on the main street. The octopus squid ink pasta and mushroom risotto were absolutely incredible!! There are tons of cute shops and restaurants around – so much to enjoy!
Day 7: Travel to Lagos
We decided to drive down to Lagos – it is SUPER cheap to rent a car, but note that you’ll likely need to be able to drive manual (thanks, Eric, for driving!). You can also take a bus (buses were really reliable and quick). It’s about a 3.5 hour drive from Lisbon.
Lagos is AMAZING. I can’t say enough great things about it. I would have stayed there for a week, especially during the summer months to enjoy the incredible beaches – there are multiple UNESCO World Heritage Site beaches in Lagos (they really are that stunning!!). The town is lovely, the seafood is incredible, and the views are spectacular everywhere you turn.
We were staying a couple blocks back from the water (definitely would recommend our Airbnb!!) which made beach access super easy. You can walk almost directly into town from the miles-long boardwalk along the beach, which is a great way to get acclimated.
We used this day as a bit of a reset, so we didn’t do much. However, there is so much to do here to live out your outdoorsy dreams! See several recommendations below.
Day 8: Exploring Lagos
There are so many outdoor activities to do in Lagos and the surrounding areas. My top three recommendations would be the following:
- Kayak on the Atlantic through caves, grottos, and beaches. This is THE coolest thing you can do. Weaving your way through sea caves and navigating the ocean waters had me feeling like Pocahontas. There are both guided and solo options – you can explore on your own so long as you’re comfortable in a kayak on the ocean (lol). We rented without a guide through Paddle & Kayak Fun, and they were fantastic. If kayaking is a new activity for you, I’d go with a guide. Note: book a guided tour in advance, as they fill up fast!
- Hike the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail (trail begins in Benagil). This 7.5 mile trail gives you incredible vantage points of the beaches and caves in Benagil. Bring snacks and sunscreen, and enjoy the views!
- Watch the sunset from Cape St. Vincent (30 min drive from Lagos). Sadly we didn’t the time or weather cooperation to do this, but it looks stunning! Bring snacks, a couple bottles of wine, and a blanket to enjoy.
After our kayaking adventure, we had one of our favorite meals of the trip with dinner at Taberna da Mo. Tip: get the anchovy on toast with pepper jam – life changing. We also wanted to try Don Sebastião, which is a Michelin Guide restaurant.
Lagos: Where to Stay
Our Airbnb was AMAZING. Probably my favorite one (although Porto was a close, close second). I would just stay there, even if you’re a smaller group! Here is another highly-rated option on the other side of town.
Lagos: What to Do, Eat, and Drink
- Eat at Taberna da Mo or Don Sebastião
- Kayak through Ponte de Piedade (the very famous grotto/cave area right in Lagos – it rivals Benagil caves!)
- Hike the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail (in Benagil)
- Take a speedboat tour to the caves, grottos, and beaches of Benagil (including the ultra-famous Benagil cave)
- Watch the sunset from Cape St. Vincent (30 minute drive from Lagos); there’s also a beautiful vantage point and lighthouse right in Lagos, called the Farol da Ponta da Piedade Lagos that probably gives just as much bang for your buck 😉
- Shop/drink your way down the pedestrian streets of Old Town Lagos (right off of the main street Av. dos Descobrimentos); this is where both Taberna da Mo and Don Sebastião are, and there are tons of cute bars!
Day 9: Travel back to Lisbon
We started our last full day with breakfast on the porch of our Airbnb in Lagos, and then drove about 40 minutes to the small town of Benagil for a speedboat tour to visit the iconic Benagil cave. We went through Tridente Boat Trips and they were fantastic!
Note: kayaking was once allowed in Benagil, but the Portuguese government has since banned all human-powered excursions in the area due to a high rate of injuries from folks not navigating the surf properly (yikes), as well as accelerated erosion (double yikes). Check back on the government website to see the status of kayaking in Benagil before you go.
After the boat trip, we had a great lunch right on the water and then headed back up to Lisbon. If you wanted to hike, note that post-boat tour would be the perfect time to do the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail!
Once back in Lisbon, we checked into our Airbnb (rivals the Lagos Airbnb for our favorite!) and got settled. For our last dinner out, we walked from our Airbnb and ate at Leonetta. It was the best pasta I’ve ever had (the pumpkin gnocchi was truly life changing).
Lisbon: Where to Stay
We stayed in two different Airbnbs in Lisbon in two different parts of town. Both were in amazing locations – one a bit north or Barrio Alto, and one a bit west of downtown but super close to the water. They were very different experiences in that the northern one was very quiet and quaint, while the downtown one felt very much in the city. I loved both, but some of our pals didn’t love the downtown one because it’s above a bar that was quite loud at night.
If you’re traveling as a smaller group or couple, I’d recommend staying here, here, or here.
Lisbon: What to Do, Eat, and Drink
- Wander through Time Out Market and enjoy a meal/drinks here – this iconic waterfront market is super trendy (and therefore more pricey), but also a must-see! Lots of great seafood options, and the Tiramisu gelato at
- Eat at Leonetta (Italian). The best pasta I’ve ever had! Make a reservation
- Grab breakfast, brunch, or lunch at Fauna & Flora, Ceres Boulangerie, Heim Cafe, or Dear Breakfast (multiple locations in the city)
- Grab a drink at one of these two rooftop bars for amazing expansive city and water views: Park or Java (we went to Java and loved it!)
- Experience traditional Fado music and dinner at the iconic Fama D’Alfama – we had the BEST time enjoying a lovley meal and listening to the incredible musicians! Some say the dinner experience is overrated – you can also experience late-night Fado at Mesa de Frades without the expensive meal. Regardless of how you do it, Fado is a must-do!
- Wander the tiny streets of Alfama (grab grilled sardines along the way!)
- Shop along the streets of the beautiful Chiado shopping district
- Keep your eyes peeled for azulejos tiles all around the city (you’ll see tons of tile in Porto as well). There are so many beautiful traditional tiled homes. Don’t forget to look up!
- Pop into the Castelo de S. Jorge for sweeping views and amazing castle ruins. In the heart of the Alfama neighborhood, you can take little stairways and alleys to get you up and down from the castle – there are entry points near Miradouro and Recolhimento. You can also take the Tram #28 there
- We didn’t have time to go here, but I really wanted to see the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – an ancient monestery and UNESCO World Heritage Site. It looks SO cool! You’ll want to Uber there or take the Tram #15)
- While you’re in that part of town, visit the Torre de Belem and walk along the waterfront to the Padrao dos Descobrimentos – from here, take an elevator (or 7 flights of stairs) to the top for incredible views
Day 10: Return Home
We were so sad to leave – Portugal is incredible! I can’t recommend it enough for a more budget-friendly, culturally (and tummy) enriching experience.
Don’t hesitate to comment below or reach out to me with any questions!
Happy travels!
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